Why Formulators Look Beyond Lanolin
Lanolin—a waxy blend of sterols and fatty alcohols from sheep’s wool—earned its place in skincare, hair care, and color cosmetics because it adheres well, binds significant amounts of water, and forms a semi-occlusive film that helps reduce TEWL while supporting w/o emulsions. Those are the performance benchmarks formulators look to match when considering a vegan lanolin alternative: comparable adhesion and payoff, measurable water-binding, a breathable barrier effect, and reliable emulsion stability.
The market shift away from animal-derived lanolin reflects clear demand for plant-based, cruelty-free options and more transparent sourcing. While lanolin is widely used, its supply chain remains tied to livestock agriculture, which raises environmental footprint considerations. As brands update their standards, formulators increasingly evaluate plant-based lanolin substitutes that deliver the same sensorial and functional benefits—with cleaner labeling and sustainability narratives that align with modern product briefs.
What “lanolin-like” means in practice:
- Adhesion & payoff: grip on lips/skin and pigment hold.
- Water-binding feel: cushion, slip, and moisture perception in anhydrous formats.
- Semi-occlusive comfort: protective film without waxy drag.
- Emulsion support: stability contribution in w/o and high-oil creams.
Plantsoft™: plant-based “lanolin” that protects sensorials
Natura-Tec’s Plantsoft™ range provides four complementary grades designed to hit lanolin-like targets while giving you tuning levers for cushion, grip, gloss, and structure.
Plantsoft™ Lux L New
Form: Semi-solid
- Cushion-forward, refined afterfeel; water-binding feel (~4×)
- Semi-occlusive comfort; supports emulsion stability
- Best for premium lip care, rich creams, leave-on masks
Plantsoft™ L
Form: Semi-solid
- Lanolin-like adhesion & payoff; water-binding feel (~4×)
- Semi-occlusive comfort; emulsion stabilizer
- Best for lip balms, rich hand/body creams, w/o & high-oil systems
Plantsoft™ Oil
Form: Viscous liquid
- Glide & spread; moderates tack; enhances gloss & substantivity
- Balances payoff in anhydrous formats
- Best for creams/lotions, serums, oil sticks, glossy balms
Plantsoft™ Wax
Form: Solid wax
- Structure & firmness; boosts payoff & film integrity
- Improves pigment dispersion & adhesion
- Best for balms/sticks, lipsticks, hair wax/pomades
Specs & Benchmarks at a Glance
Use this to screen alternatives quickly. Always confirm ranges with the latest PDS/specs:
| Product | INCI | Form | Characteristics | Applications |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plantsoft™ Lux L | Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables | Semi-solid | Cushion-forward, refined afterfeel; water-binding feel (~4×); semi-occlusive comfort; supports emulsion stability. | Premium lip care, rich creams, leave-on masks. |
| Plantsoft™ L | Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables | Semi-solid | Lanolin-like adhesion and payoff; water-binding feel (~4×); semi-occlusive comfort; emulsion stabilizer. | Lip balms, rich hand/body creams, w/o and high-oil systems. |
| Plantsoft™ Oil | Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables | Viscous liquid | Glide and spread; moderates tack; enhances gloss and substantivity; balances payoff in anhydrous formats. | Creams and lotions, serums, oil sticks, glossy balms. |
| Plantsoft™ Wax | Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil | Solid wax | Structure and firmness; boosts payoff and film integrity; improves pigment dispersion and adhesion. | Balms and sticks, lipsticks, hair wax/pomades. |
Drop-in replacement guidance (quick starts)
Anhydrous balms & sticks
- Start 1:1 vs. lanolin with Plantsoft™ L or Lux L.
- Shift toward Lux L for a softer lay-down and more cushion at equal firmness.
- Tune with Plantsoft™ Oil for glide/gloss; add Plantsoft™ Wax for structure/payoff.
Rich creams (w/o or high-oil o/w)
- Replace 50–100% of lanolin with Plantsoft™ L or Lux L.
- Add 1–3% Plantsoft™ Oil to moderate tack and improve spread.
- Maintain emulsifier/fatty alcohol balance; check viscosity & phase behavior on stability.
Processing Notes
- Phase: add Plantsoft™ materials to the oil phase.
- Temperature: heat to the highest MP in your phase; avoid unnecessary overheating.
- Shear & cooling: sticks—controlled cooling to manage crystallization/bloom; creams—brief homogenize, then sweep to finish.
- Compatibility: works with common emollients, butters, waxes, pigments, UV filters—verify in your base.
Micro-formulations
Bees & Lips Protection — 1703F-BLP (Vegan, natural-origin stick)
| Phase 1 | % |
|---|---|
| Natura-Tec Castor Oil-Refined (Ricinus Communis Seed Oil) | 29.00 |
| Natura-Tec Abysoft (Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Phytosterol Esters) | 10.00 |
| FD&C Red 7 Ca Lake (CI 15850) | 0.20 |
| Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) | 2.53 |
| Yellow Iron Oxide (CI 77492) | 0.12 |
| Covapearl Pink 433 (Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) and Mica) | 0.25 |
| Unipure Brown LC 887 (CI 77491/77492/77499) | 0.20 |
| Phase 2 | % |
|---|---|
| Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1 (Glyceryl Oleate / PGPR / Olive Unsaponifiables) | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Castor Oil-Refined | 10.00 |
| Deionized Water | 3.00 |
| Natura-Tec Marine RevitaLys HP | 2.00 |
| Phase 3 | % |
|---|---|
| Naturasoft Shea W-Refined | 5.00 |
| NaturaVelvet Peach | 5.00 |
| Natural Vaselin Type A | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Plantsoft™ L | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Candelilla Wax | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Carnauba Wax T1 | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Vegetable Beeswax | 6.50 |
| Phase 4 | % |
|---|---|
| Natura-Tec Marine CellShield AP | 1.00 |
| Natural Vitamin E (Tocopherol) | 0.20 |
Appearance: Rose quartz solid balm
Procedure: At room temp, weigh Phases 1 & 2 separately and pre-disperse under shear. Add Phase 3 to Phase 1. Heat Phase 2 and the Phase (3+1) mixture separately to ~98 °C. At temp, slowly add Phase 2 into (3+1) under high shear to form W/O. Add Phase 4, mix well, then pour; cool in molds at ~80 °C.
Repairing & Protective Baby Cream — 1408D-RPC (Barrier cream)
| Phase 1 (Oil) | % |
|---|---|
| Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1 | 4.00 |
| Natura-Tec Plantsil | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Ultrafeel MCT | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Wheat Germ Oil — Refined | 5.00 |
| Natura-Tec Plantsoft™ L | 4.00 |
| NaturaVelvet Macadamia | 3.00 |
| White Beeswax | 2.00 |
| Phase 2 (Water) | % |
|---|---|
| Deionized Water | q.s. 100 |
| Glycerin (Organic) | 2.00 |
| Magnesium Sulfate (MgSO4·7H2O) | 0.80 |
| Phase 3 (Cool-down) | % |
|---|---|
| Zinc Oxide (ZnO 99.7%) | 15.00 |
| Liposoluble Chamomile Extract 1:2 | 1.00 |
| Geogard ECT | 0.50 |
| Natural Vitamin E (Tocopherol) | 0.30 |
Appearance: White shiny emulsion (viscosity ~800,000 mPa·s @25 °C; LV4 0.3 rpm)
Procedure: Heat Phases 1 and 2 separately to ~70 °C. At temperature, add Phase 2 into Phase 1 gradually while stirring intensively (≈600–800 rpm). Homogenize (≈2 min @ ~6000 rpm). Cool with moderate stirring; add Phase 3 under 40 °C.
Regulatory Highlights
Plantsoft™ Lux L
Premium cushion; softer laydown for elevated sensorials.
Plantsoft™ L
Classic lanolin-like adhesion; semi-occlusive comfort.
Plantsoft™ Oil
Glide and spread; moderates tack; enhances gloss.
Plantsoft™ Wax
Structure and payoff for balms, sticks, and pomades.
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