What Most Retinal Formulations Get Wrong—And How to Fix It

Retinoid Reinvented: A Deeper Look at INdermal’s Vegan DDS Pure Retinal

In the cosmetic formulation space, few active ingredients have generated as much discussion—and as many formulation headaches—as retinoids. These vitamin A derivatives have long been heralded as gold-standard solutions for aging skin, with retinaldehyde (retinal) standing out for its potent efficacy and faster performance compared to other cosmetic retinoids. Yet the promise of retinal is often undercut by its instability, irritation potential, and limited formulation versatility.

INdermal’s Vegan DDS Pure Retinal represents a turning point. By combining retinal with a cutting-edge deep delivery system (DDS) composed of vegan nanovesicles, it addresses multiple formulation pain points—without compromising on efficacy. Backed by compelling ex vivo and in vivo data, this ingredient makes a strong case for a more stable, bioavailable, and skin-compatible approach to retinoid innovation.

The Stability Problem: Formulators and the Fragility of Retinal

Retinaldehyde is a powerful intermediate in the retinoid metabolic pathway, sitting between retinol and retinoic acid. Unlike retinol, retinal is only one conversion step away from biologically active retinoic acid, making it faster-acting and more potent. However, this same reactivity is what makes it a challenge to work with.

Retinal is highly unstable in formulation environments. Exposure to light, oxygen, heat, and pH fluctuations can trigger rapid degradation. This results not only in reduced efficacy but also in the generation of irritating byproducts and visible color changes in the final product. For formulators, this means balancing actives, preservatives, emulsifiers, and surfactants while hoping the retinal will remain intact until application.

Additionally, retinal’s irritancy potential, while lower than retinoic acid, still makes it problematic for sensitive skin types. Many consumers report redness, dryness, and flaking, particularly when used in higher concentrations. These limitations often prevent formulators from utilizing retinal at its full potential, forcing compromises in performance or concentration.

Unlocking Retinal’s Potential: A Multifunctional Solution in Vegan DDS Pure Retinal

Vegan DDS Pure Retinal overcomes the historical barriers of retinal formulation by encapsulating the active in biomimetic nanovesicles made of phospholipids and membrane stabilizers. These vegan nanocarriers are designed to enhance skin penetration, protect the active from degradation, and deliver it gradually over time—amplifying both performance and tolerability.

This deep delivery system (DDS) enables a maximum delivery of the active ingredient into the lower layers of the skin, without compromising surface compatibility. With an average vesicle size of 150–300 nm, the DDS facilitates deeper skin targeting while maintaining safety at the stratum corneum level. This is particularly relevant for retinal, whose efficacy depends on its ability to reach keratinocytes, where it is metabolized into retinoic acid.

The benefits are multifold:

These advantages translate to a more predictable, consumer-friendly formulation—without the guesswork that typically accompanies retinoid development.

Performance Without Compromise: What the Data Says

The encapsulation of retinal in DDS nanovesicles does more than just stabilize the molecule—it enhances its bioavailability and measurable performance on the skin.

In ex vivo studies, Vegan DDS Pure Retinal demonstrated a 123.61% increase in collagen levels and 111.18% increase in elastin levels after just nine applications across 11 days on human organotypic skin explant cultures. These results were 3.7 times greater than those observed with the same concentration of free retinal.

In a 56-day in vivo study with 30 women aged 35 to 60, the benefits were equally compelling:

► +67% increase in skin firmness
► +69% increase in skin elasticity
► -18% reduction in wrinkle depth
► 100% of participants reported improved skin firmness

The delivery system’s ability to release the active gradually allows for prolonged biological activity and minimized irritation—ideal for anti-aging formulations where consumer comfort is just as important as clinical efficacy.

A Smarter Way to Formulate with Retinal

The cosmetic market continues to evolve toward performance-backed actives that balance efficacy with safety, and sustainability with sophistication. Consumers now expect visible results within weeks—but without irritation, purging, or downtime.

According to Mintel’s 2023 Global Beauty Trends report, more than 55% of consumers say they are actively looking for high-performance skincare solutions that also cater to sensitive skin. Meanwhile, the demand for vegan and biotechnology-derived actives continues to climb, especially among younger demographics and clean beauty enthusiasts.

Vegan DDS Pure Retinal sits squarely at this intersection. It offers:

• High-performance anti-aging results
• Advanced delivery through biodegradable nanotechnology
• A vegan, biomimetic composition aligned with clean beauty values

For formulators, this means being able to create clinically effective, sensorially elegant, and ethically aligned products without sacrificing technical integrity. From overnight resurfacing serums to gentle retinoid creams, the possibilities are wide open—and more achievable than ever before.

Looking Ahead: The Future of Bioavailable Retinoids

INdermal’s Vegan DDS Pure Retinal is more than an encapsulated retinoid—it’s a platform for innovation. Whether your goal is to build a more effective anti-aging serum, a gentle retinoid night cream, or a targeted treatment for skin renewal, this ingredient gives you the technical versatility, proven performance, and formulation flexibility you need.

To explore how Vegan DDS Pure Retinal can elevate your next formulation, request a sample from INdermal or contact Deveraux Specialties for technical documentation and support.

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