New Data Shows Leave-On Scalp Care Can Reduce Dandruff in 24 Hours

Understanding the Scalp Dilemma in Modern Formulation

Formulators today face a complex challenge in scalp care: developing effective anti-dandruff treatments that not only work fast but also avoid harsh antifungals, preserve the delicate scalp microbiome, and align with clean beauty principles. Consumer demand has shifted sharply—away from aggressive active ingredients and toward more natural, sustainable, and multifunctional options that offer both efficacy and comfort.

Dandruff remains one of the most common and persistent scalp concerns worldwide. Affecting up to 50% of adults—particularly in the 20 to 50 age range—it is often accompanied by itchiness, irritation, and flaking, all of which impact consumer confidence and comfort. While traditional treatments like climbazole, zinc pyrithione, and piroctone olamine have long been staples in rinse-off systems, concerns over irritation, resistance development, regulatory restrictions, and microbiome disruption have made them less desirable for future-focused formulations.

In response, Givaudan Active Beauty’s latest research on DandErase™ introduces a breakthrough botanical approach with demonstrated clinical efficacy—even in leave-on formats.

What Formulators Are Up Against: Dandruff, Regulation, and Performance Pressure

The path to effective scalp care is full of trade-offs. Historically, chemical antifungals have played a dominant role in dandruff treatments by targeting Malassezia spp.—lipid-dependent yeasts that trigger inflammation, barrier disruption, and itch. However, these compounds are often microbiome-disruptive, can provoke irritation, and are increasingly flagged by regulators. For instance, zinc pyrithione is now banned in the EU due to its reprotoxic risk, and climbazole is flagged as a potential endocrine disruptor by ECHA (2024).

Adding to the challenge, consumers expect rapid results without visible residues or heavy textures, particularly in leave-on systems. From a formulation standpoint, this means balancing efficacy with solubility, stability, and sensory appeal—all within clean-label constraints.

The demand for gentler, natural, and multifunctional alternatives has also grown. According to a 2024 Mintel report on haircare trends in Brazil, 59% of consumers believe healthy hair starts with scalp health, and 32% actively seek anti-dandruff solutions that are mood-boosting and microbiome-friendly. This shift is driving formulators to explore new ingredient systems that work within these modern parameters—without compromising performance.

DandErase™: A Multidimensional Botanical Solution

purple flowers of saffron and stamens on wooden background

DandErase™, developed by Givaudan Active Beauty, is a multifunctional scalp care active derived from Crocus sativus flower extract, processed via green fractionation and stabilized in a NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent) matrix.

It targets the multifactorial nature of dandruff with a four-pronged mechanism: antifungal, anti-inflammatory, anti-itch, and barrier-restoring. DandErase™ is a complex phytocomplex contains rare and potent flavonoids, such as kaempferol-3-O-sophoroside and astragalin, along with kinsenoside. The synergy of these actives contributes to its antifungal action against Malassezia globosa, while minimizing the risk of resistance often seen with single-molecule antifungals.

danderase mechanism of action

Unlike conventional actives, DandErase™ is water-soluble, 100% of natural origin (ISO 16128), COSMOS-certified, and microbiome-friendly—making it particularly well-suited for clean formulations in both rinse-off and leave-on formats.

In a recent clinical study, DandErase™ demonstrated effectiveness within just 24 hours of leave-on application, showing up to 80% dandruff reduction by Day 28 with both 1.5% and 3% dosage levels.

The Science Behind the Solution: Biological and Clinical Efficacy

Antifungal Power Comparable to Chemical Benchmarks

In vitro studies showed that DandErase™ at 6% (0.3% dry matter) inhibits Malassezia globosa growth as effectively as 0.5% climbazole, ketoconazole, and piroctone olamine. The key differentiator lies in its mechanism—membrane disruption and mitochondrial depolarization—actions that reduce the likelihood of fungal resistance development.

danderase inhibition of malassezia
Anti-inflammatory and Anti-itch Activity

DandErase™ reduced the release of TNF-α in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models triggered by Malassezia by 25%. It also cut histamine release by 38% via MRGPRX2 receptor modulation in mast cells—an advanced mechanism targeting itch at the neuroimmune level.

danderase reduction of tnfa
danderase reduction of histamine release
Barrier Repair and Keratinocyte Regulation

Barrier repair was evidenced through multiple pathways: DandErase™ limited keratinocyte migration (mitigating parakeratosis), reduced transglutaminase-1 expression (hyperdifferentiation marker), and increased desmoglein-1 levels (desmosomal protein) by 135%, reinforcing structural cohesion in the epidermis.

danderase barrier repair and keratinocyte regulation
Scalp Microbiome Preservation

Most importantly for leave-on applications, DandErase™ demonstrated selectivity by significantly reducing Malassezia without impacting beneficial bacterial populations. In vivo, this led to improved scalp interabiome balance, with reduced microbial interdependence and forced collaborations—markers of a healthier microbiota.

danderase stabilization of scalp microbiome

Leave-On Study Highlights: Proven Efficacy in 24 Hours and Maintained Through 28 Days

The recent leave-on clinical study on DandErase™ marks a significant advancement in scalp care formulation. Conducted in China, this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial evaluated the efficacy of DandErase™ in a leave-on lotion format at concentrations of 1.5% and 3%. A total of 103 women aged 24 to 60 years old, all presenting visible dandruff and self-reported scalp itching, were enrolled. Importantly, the study design allowed participants to maintain their existing shampoo routines, minimizing external influence and mimicking realistic consumer use patterns. Each subject applied the test lotion once daily, with specific instructions to allow a minimum six-hour contact time before washing.

givaudan leave on study

The results were notable. Both concentrations of DandErase™ demonstrated significant reductions in visible dandruff area after just one application, with 1.5% and 3% formulas reducing dandruff area by 62.9% and 66.4%, respectively, after 24 hours. This effect was not only statistically significant compared to placebo but also maintained through Day 28, confirming DandErase™’s long-lasting activity in leave-on applications. Dermatological assessments aligned with these findings, and subjective consumer feedback further validated the efficacy: 100% of users in the 1.5% and 3% groups agreed that dandruff was visibly reduced, itching was relieved, and scalp oil production slowed down. These outcomes support DandErase™ as a leave-on-compatible ingredient with high user compliance, fast action, and durable performance.

Clinical Evidence: A Botanical Active That Competes with Leading Anti-Dandruff Actives

In addition to the leave-on results, DandErase™ has demonstrated strong clinical efficacy in rinse-off formats, offering formulators versatile options for targeting dandruff across product types. In a controlled comparative study, a 3% DandErase™ shampoo was tested against both a placebo and the top-selling anti-dandruff shampoo in France (containing 0.5% piroctone olamine). Over a four-week period, 30 volunteers used the DandErase™ shampoo three times per week. Half of them were switched to placebo after Day 14 to evaluate long-lasting effects beyond active application. The study used standardized scales to measure visual dandruff, scalp flake count via C-Cube imaging, and self-reported itch and irritation.

danderase reduces dandruff

DandErase™ matched the benchmark shampoo in performance and exceeded expectations in certain areas. By Day 3, dandruff was reduced by up to 95%, and by Day 14, up to 97%, demonstrating a rapid onset of action similar to that of piroctone olamine. Furthermore, 100% of participants showed improvement, and the anti-dandruff effect persisted even after transitioning to placebo—a clear indicator of microbiome rebalancing and not just symptomatic suppression. Unlike chemical benchmarks, DandErase™ also reduced erythema and signs of inflammation, with 4.8× greater reduction in scalp redness compared to placebo. When considering its performance across both rinse-off and leave-on formats, DandErase™ stands out as a rare botanical active that delivers consistent, quantifiable relief from dandruff without compromising on scalp health or microbiome integrity.

danderase erythema reduction

A New Chapter for Scalp Serums, Tonics, and Leave-On Treatments

For formulators seeking a next-generation active that’s effective, natural, and microbiome-friendly, DandErase™ sets a new standard. Backed by robust biological mechanisms and clinical validation in both rinse-off and leave-on systems, it addresses not just dandruff, but the full spectrum of scalp discomfort—from itch to inflammation to barrier dysfunction.

The future of anti-dandruff care doesn’t lie in more aggressive chemistry—it lies in smarter, gentler design. And with DandErase™, that future is already here.

Ready to reformulate scalp care with DandErase™? Contact us at Deveraux Specialties to request technical documentation, samples, or a prototype consultation.

DandErase™ Leaflet | Givaudan Active Beauty
Sources
  1. Givaudan Active Beauty. “Presentation DandErase – Long DEF leave on.” 2025.
  2. Kantar Profiles/Mintel. “Brazil Haircare Market Report 2024.” Mintel Store. 2024. https://store.mintel.com/report/brazil-haircare-market-report
  3. Karray, S., & McKinney, W. “Malassezia virulence factors and their role in dermatological disorders.” Acta Dermatovenerol Alp Pannonica Adriat. 2022.
    https://acta-apa.org/journals/acta-dermatovenerol-apa/papers/10.15570/actaapa.2022.8/actaapa.2022.8.pdf
  4. Patel, N. et al. “Multifaceted MRGPRX2: New Insight into the Role of Mast Cells in Itch.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2019.
    https://www.jacionline.org/article/S0091-6749(21)00721-1/fulltext
  5. European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). “Candidate List of substances of very high concern for Authorisation.” ECHA. 2024.
    https://echa.europa.eu/candidate-list-table
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