Beyond the Surface: Formulating to Protect Skin at the Mitochondrial Level
In skincare, we often talk about the surface—hydration, brightness, fine lines—but some of the most critical damage happens far beneath what the eye can see. As UV exposure and oxidative stress continue to top the list of extrinsic aging triggers, researchers have begun to shift their focus to where the damage truly begins: the mitochondria. Formulators who want to deliver genuine, science-backed anti-aging results must now consider not only surface-level protection, but also how their formulations can guard the energy centers of our skin cells.
This is where Dr. Ergo™ Youth, a high-purity ergothioneine active from Shanghai EGT Synbio, becomes a compelling option. Not just another antioxidant, it’s a molecule that enters cells through a dedicated transporter, helping protect mitochondrial function while offering a proven trifecta of anti-wrinkle, brightening, and anti-inflammatory performance. But before we look at how this works, it’s important to understand the growing body of science that’s redefining what we mean by “anti-aging”.
Deep Defense: Targeting UV Damage Where It Starts—Inside the Mitochondria
As more data emerges on the molecular mechanisms of skin aging, the role of mitochondrial dysfunction has come into sharper focus. Mitochondria are responsible for producing ATP—cellular energy—and regulating oxidative stress. When these organelles are damaged, often through repeated UV exposure, the effects ripple outward: collagen breakdown accelerates, DNA repair slows, and cells lose their ability to function optimally.

Sreedhar, A., Aguilera-Aguirre, L. & Singh, K.K. Mitochondria in skin health, aging, and disease. Cell Death Dis 11, 444 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41419-020-2649-z
A 2024 study published in Nature Scientific Reports used STED nanoscopy to visualize how UV radiation causes mitochondrial fragmentation in human dermal fibroblasts, disrupting the delicate network of these energy-producing structures (Kim et al., 2024). This disruption results in reduced ATP production and an increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS), fueling a feedback loop of cellular decline. Another review in Mitochondrion outlines how skin aging is closely tied to impaired mitochondrial quality surveillance—including decreased mitophagy, dysregulated fusion/fission dynamics, and reduced biogenesis capacity (Zhang et al., 2023).



Figures 1, 2 and 3. Kim, H. J., Jin, S.-P., Kang, J., Bae, S. H., Son, J. B., Oh, J.-H., Youn, H., Kim, S. K., Kang, K. W., & Chung, J. H. (2024). Uncovering the impact of UV radiation on mitochondria in dermal cells: a STED nanoscopy study. Scientific Reports. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-024-55778-z
These findings underscore a core challenge for formulators: it’s no longer enough to include a generic antioxidant. To truly address the root causes of aging, actives must penetrate cells and protect the mitochondria from within.
Dr. Ergo Youth™: Meeting the Demand for Intelligent Antioxidants in Longevity Skincare
Most traditional antioxidants, like Vitamin C and E, function as general ROS scavengers. While helpful, they often struggle with poor stability, rapid oxidation, and lack of targeted delivery. In practice, this means limited efficacy where it matters most—inside stressed cells, particularly the mitochondria.
Dr. Ergo™ Youth offers a fundamentally different approach. Its key ingredient, ergothioneine, is a thiol compound that the human body cannot synthesize. Instead, it is taken up selectively via the OCTN1 transporter, a protein encoded by the SLC22A4 gene that is upregulated in cells experiencing oxidative stress. This means ergothioneine doesn’t just float in the extracellular matrix—it’s actively delivered into cells and directed toward the mitochondria and nucleus, where it provides antioxidant protection exactly where it’s needed most.

This targeted mechanism gives formulators a reliable tool to address deeper causes of aging without resorting to high-use levels or multi-step delivery systems. It also allows for synergy with other skincare technologies, especially those targeting UV protection and DNA repair.
The Science Behind the Claims: Ergothioneine’s Multi-Layered Performance
Dr. Ergo™ Youth has been rigorously evaluated through in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies. Its technical profile reflects a high standard of efficacy and versatility, offering multiple points of differentiation for cosmetic developers.
One of its standout features is prolonged bioavailability—ergothioneine remains active in tissue for up to 730 hours, far exceeding the lifespan of ascorbic acid or tocopherol (Dong et al., 2007). This long half-life means fewer formulation challenges related to instability and oxidation, and more dependable performance over time.
In clinical testing, 0.3% Dr. Ergo™ Youth delivered visible wrinkle reduction and improved skin elasticity within 28 days. Its brightening effects were also notable: at only 0.1%, it matched the depigmenting power of 7% Vitamin C without irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin applications. Additional in vivo studies confirmed anti-inflammatory properties, including significant reductions in TRPV1 gene expression—a key biomarker associated with sensory irritation.



All of this is achieved with high formulation compatibility, thanks to Dr. Ergo™ Youth’s pH stability and light/heat resistance. The ingredient is compliant with major global standards (GRAS, CGMP, Halal, Kosher, ISO certifications), further de-risking development timelines for brands expanding into global markets.
Formulating for Longevity: The Mitochondria-Centered Shift in Skincare
Mitochondrial health is emerging as a critical frontier in the next generation of cosmetic innovation. As consumers seek longer-lasting and more biologically aligned skincare, brands must respond with ingredients that do more than treat symptoms—they must address root causes of visible aging.
The industry is already starting to move in this direction. A 2025 peer-reviewed study in Cosmetics demonstrated that even topical SPF formulations can reduce UV-induced mitochondrial DNA damage and blue light-triggered decline in cell viability, emphasizing the importance of formulating for mitochondrial protection even in basic sun care (Moor et al., 2025). Adding targeted actives like ergothioneine that work intracellularly can multiply this protective effect and serve as a foundation for longevity-focused skincare systems.
As scientific understanding deepens, the demand for actives that support mitochondrial energy production, DNA repair, and inflammation control will only grow. Dr. Ergo™ Youth offers formulators a forward-looking option that checks every box: validated mechanism, clinical efficacy, formulation stability, and multi-claim potential.
Designing for Longevity Starts at the Cellular Level
Anti-aging is evolving—from a surface-level aesthetic promise to a biologically grounded strategy. With rising consumer awareness and scientific data pointing to mitochondria as central players in skin aging, the formulation blueprint must also evolve.
Dr. Ergo™ Youth makes that shift possible. It empowers formulators to create skincare that acts intelligently, delivering protection and repair to the precise regions of cellular stress—resulting in products that are not only effective, but also rooted in the latest science of longevity.
Explore how Dr. Ergo™ Youth can bring targeted mitochondrial protection to your next skincare launch—Contact us or connect with your Deveraux Specialties Sales Manager for formulation assistance.
Resources
- Dong, K. K., Damaghi, N., Picart, S. D., Markova, N. G., Obayashi, K., Okano, Y., & Uitto, J. (2007). UA comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L-ergothioneine and idebenone. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 6(3), 183–188. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17760697/
- Kim, H. J., Jin, S.-P., Kang, J., Bae, S. H., Son, J. B., Oh, J.-H., Youn, H., Kim, S. K., Kang, K. W., & Chung, J. H. (2024). Uncovering the impact of UV radiation on mitochondria in dermal cells: a STED nanoscopy study. Scientific Reports. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-024-55778-z
- Sreedhar, A., Aguilera-Aguirre, L. & Singh, K.K. Mitochondria in skin health, aging, and disease. Cell Death Dis 11, 444 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41419-020-2649-z
- Zhang, C., Gao, X., Li, M., Yu, X., Huang, F., Wang, Y., Yan, Y., Zhang, H., Shi, Y., & He, X. (2023). The role of mitochondrial quality surveillance in skin aging: Focus on mitochondrial dynamics, biogenesis and mitophagy. Mitochondrion, 73, 64–75. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1568163723000764
- Moor, J., Bowman, A., Choudhary, H., Brookes, J., Brieva, P., & Birch-Machin, M. A. (2025). Sun Protection Products Protect Against UV-Induced Mitochondrial DNA Damage and Blue Light-Induced Cell Decline in Human Dermal Fibroblast Skin Cell Viability. Cosmetics, 12(3), 128. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030128